WHY WE LOVED

THE MARGIELA SHOW 

WHAT THE MARGIELA COUTURE SHOW MEANT TO ME

Words By Arcy Hawks

The couture shows in Paris just ended. One show in particular was hailed as a masterpiece.  For the House of Margiela, John Galliano created an obsess-worthy show that had the entire fashion world spinning with delight.

If you are not familiar with either, I will give you a little bit of history.  Martin Margiela began his career with John Paul Gaultier from 1985- 1987.  After this, he started his own brand in 1989.  Martin Margiela was a true visionary and had a love for fashion.  He did not like the notoriety or the attention.  He never walked out for a bow and rarely did any interviews.  He had to create.  He is most known for creating the Tabi Boot.  While this is significant, it pales compared to what he did for fashion until his retirement in early 2009.  “Vogue would later write that his early ideas “provoked shock and intrigue” in the fashion industry. On the label’s garments, simple blank white labels with four white tacks were sewn to signify the brand. Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers, in no particular chronological order.”  He was the master of the deconstructed look.  In 2009, shortly after being acquired by OTB, he resigned and removed himself from the fashion world.

By 2014, they were in need of a creative director, and John Galliano was hired. His eccentric and expert tailoring has been a perfect match. John Galliano did his time at Dior, Givenchy, and his own label, Galliano. A fall from grace left him out of fashion view until the offer at Margiela.  It has proven to be wonderful for Galliano, and this 2024 couture shows the world what a truly creative and talented designer he is. The show was everything so many have felt has been missing in fashion these days.  True creativity and skills.  The hunched-over looks are actually clothing constructed to give the illusion of being bent over. The corsets and neck pieces are made of leather crafted to look like porcelain. The show location itself harkens back to old Margiela shows housed in abandoned buildings. 

This show is a breakthrough moment for fashion because it is not about the commercial success or the people in the front row, but the artistry.  These pieces are couture.  They are not meant to be sold in Bergdorfs.  They are meant for dreams. We all know what a beautiful black drapery dress designed by Armani Prive looks like or where a  beaded and tulle gown designed by Valentino will be worn.  But think about where these astounding creations will make their debut. I could only dream of being invited to that event.